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[NRaleighLiberal]

This message was self-deleted by its author (NRaleighLiberal) on Mon Jun 20, 2016, 12:52 AM. When the original post in a discussion thread is self-deleted, the entire discussion thread is automatically locked so new replies cannot be posted.

[Curmudgeoness]

1. Tomatopalooza! Wish I could have been there.

It sounds like a great place to go to taste tomatoes. Glad you get publicity!

I have to ask, since I always thought of this as a failure on my part---what causes the tomatoes to crack, and it is avoidable? Or is it ok and doesn't ruin the tomato? (This is the reason I have given up on growing large tomatoes anymore.)

[NRaleighLiberal]

2. Cracking in tomatoes - part genetics, with a dash of the weather/growing conditions.

Pretty complicated - there is concentric cracking, radial cracking - many tomatoes are prone just because of the genetics of a particular variety. Hot weather - uneven watering - all contribute. Doesn't ruin a tomato as long as you get to it before it starts to rot badly around the crack..or the fruit flies find it!

[Denninmi]

3. Nice article.

If you've found this new striped one featured in the slides better than ones like Big Rainbow or Striped German, it must be really great. I like both of those very much.

Nice write up and photos. Thanks for sharing them with us.

It amazes me that you do all of this, and keep it all straight. It must be a real labor of love, because I know it's real labor.

[NRaleighLiberal]

4. hard to explain, like all hobbies/passions - or maybe we are all just selected somehow

to further different pursuits. Whatever, it is quite satisfying on many levels - but thanks! Sharing it with others, teaching people about this is very fulfilling.

[dmosh42]

5. Nice article. Since you're in NC, I have to ask if you have the 'leaf spot' disease problem?

I'm towards the foothills area near Mt Airy, and for four consecutive years I get this 'leaf spot', where it starts with the lower leaves rotting off and continues through the rest of plant until it just stops making flowers and producing. And I've done all the fungicide sprays, using ground coverings to keep plants from touching the ground, pruning lower branches, etc. Plants are heirlooms, paste types and cherry varieties. The plants start off very strong and develop very good roots, but still I only get until the end of July for whatever tomatoes I get to consume, and which have a great flavor!

[NRaleighLiberal]

6. Two choices - Alternaria (Early Blight) - or Septoria Leaf Spot - both are

bad enough, though not as bad as Fusarium or Tomato Spotted Wilt. I always have one or both - here it is late July and most of my plants are dead. The humidity/heat exacerbates the problem. You are doing what you can - mulch early, keep soil off the plants, remove quickly the lower foliage as it gets the spots - this year I found weekly Daconil kept it at bay somewhat - trying planting in containers (bleached) and using fresh potting medium can help also. But if it is in the soil - or infected bugs munch your plants...the only hope beyond that would be stagger your plantings (get some additional plants and plant them maybe a month or so later to extend the harvest) - or be sure to mix in some more disease tolerant hybrids (I know...yuck, for the most part).

Growing tomatoes down south isn't a whole lot different than roses - every critter, disease and natural disaster seems to go for them!

[dmosh42]

7. Ok, thanks for that quick reply. I know my neighbors have the same problems, and...

now you are confirming that it's going on over much of the state. Are you aware of any growers who are growing in some type of covered environment? None here, that I know, but am curious, as that would make it an airborne type disease maybe. By the way, I grew the Cherokee this year and the taste was great, while they lasted.