DIY & Home Improvement
In reply to the discussion: I would like to install beadboard molding in my little half-bath [View all]jeff47
(26,549 posts)If you mean "beadboard molding" that goes only about 2-3 feet up the wall, you're actually talking about wainscoting (usually pronounced like "wayne's coating" or "wayne's coting"
If you mean "beadboard molding" that covers the entire wall, then you're talking about paneling. I'm gonna assume you mean wainscoting.
The difficulty is directly proportional to the shape of your bathroom. If it's a square, it's not too hard. If it's not a square, it is harder. If it has any outside corners, it's even harder. If it has any round walls, leave it to a pro or a very experienced amateur.
Also, the walls are probably not straight. If they are far enough out of plumb (aka. straight vertically), it can be difficult to make the beadboard pattern look good - those lines will reveal the walls are leaning when the lines come together in the corners.
Finally, the corners aren't going to be 90 degrees - it's actually almost impossible to create a perfect 90 in a house due to finishing issues and settling.
One thing that can help cover imperfections is molding - Put some baseboard on top of the beadboard to cover gaps between the beadboard and the floor. That will also give you some room to fiddle with the beadboard so the lines look straight. Consider using "L" shaped molding on any corners (or cut some 3/4" wood into the widths you need). You will also want a chair rail or cap rail to cover the top of the beadboard.
Finally, start the pattern in the most visible spot in the room - usually the wall or a corner across from the door. Ideally, you will end behind the door because that's the least visible part of the room, and so the pattern not lining up will be the least noticeable.
Yep. They're kinda loud though, so you should expect to use it during "normal" hours. You'll also make a lot of sawdust, which will go everywhere.
The tricky part is the beadboard pattern means you've got a lot of straight, vertical lines. That means if your cuts aren't straight, it's going to be obvious. So you'll need to have some patience and take your time while making the cuts if you use a hand-held saw. I highly recommend getting some form of straightedge you can clamp onto the beadboard as a guide.
A "pro" might use a tablesaw instead, which makes it easier to cut a very straight line. But a tablesaw that is good enough to do a good job isn't cheap.
Don't put any body parts you wish to keep near the spinning parts of the tools. Things that can cut wood can easily cut people. And as mentioned above, the main issue is going to be cutting straight lines. The rest is pretty simple.
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